Moncler’s “one house, different voices” concept is bearing fruit, but some collections are more worthy of the “Genius” nickname than others. The following is a ranking of the Fall 2019 Genius collections ranked from least to most awesome.
10. Poldo Dog Couture
If we ranked these collections based on how adorable the press material is, this one would be number one with a bullet – just look at these adorable little smooshes! – but the collection feels very out of place when presented alongside the work of designers like Simone Rocha and Craig Green, who could probably create their own epic and special dog parkas, if they were so inclined.
9. Richard Quinn
The Moncler’s press release described Quinn’s collection as “visually striking” and it certainly is. But the genius? I do not know. The point is, Quinn’s prints never look particularly rich and even with Moncler’s superior craftsmanship in buying them, the whole collection seems to have been designed in collaboration with Vera Bradley (especially the bags). Then again, Bradley is a self-made billionaire with a private jet and legions of loyal fans, so …
8. Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara
There is some cool stuff here, but it all feels a bit basic, especially compared to the offerings from some of the other designers on the Moncler list. Perhaps that is the point, given that Moncler’s press release on the collection praises the designer’s ability to “turn the ordinary into cult,” but ultimately the point is that this particular collection does not. just don’t feel that way. special. It is not that this will prevent it from selling well, on the contrary.
7. The angels of the palm trees
The rainbow of shiny metals is lovely, but the massive logos seem a bit playful, to be honest, and the logo printed on the bags reminds me of a polka dot trapper a friend of mine had in grade 3. Back then I thought trappers were about as awesome as genie could be, but grade 3 was a very long time ago at this point.
Of the two in-house Moncler imprints (the other being Grenoble), 1952 is certainly the more commercial, but what it does it does very well. The men’s collection evoked a relaxed vibe and featured relevant silhouettes in a mix of soft colors and rolled touches that created a new balance. “From the first season, my approach has been to rework Moncler’s legacy of youth culture and its reality,” said men’s designer Sergio Zambon. “The reality of an icon translated and evolved thanks to the support of young people mixed with my passion for contemporary art, music, travel.
For the women’s collection, designer Veronica Leoni has reinterpreted the Moncler code in a superposition of materials and shapes: looped wools, fishnets, bleached tartans, quilted suit, fur and knitwear mixed with nylon in unexpected and convincing combinations. “Moncler Genius represents an eclectic, transversal and fluid way of doing fashion,” said Leoni. “The ultimate goal is to be unique while being in full harmony with the multifaceted touch of its philosophy.
In addition, the collaboration bags created with Valextra and styled with many looks above are absolutely fantastic.
5.1017 Alyx 9SM
What this collection lacks in variety, at least compared to some of the others on this list, it more than makes up for by looking so cool! The transparent red plastic parka is awesome and the whole collection gives the impression that “The Matrix” meets some kind of post-apocolyptic arctic desert.
For fall 2019, designer Sandro Mandrino decided to mix two disparate worlds – mountaineering and music festivals – and the result is a joyous riot of colors and prints that is a pleasure to see. “The mountain is where Moncler Grenoble belongs, which means performance is at the center,” Mandrino said. “I stayed true to the brief in terms of materials and shapes, but I went the other way in terms of treatments, opting for tie-dye, fringes and quilts which have a clever side. Still, you can ski in these.
3. Craig Green
Green’s obsessive interest in architecture and space when it comes to clothing and the body makes him the perfect partner for Moncler. This season, Green has played with bold volumes made up of a sum of light modules that can be folded, flattened and wrapped, creating shapes that shrink and grow. The resulting clothes look like a cross between sleeping bags, snowsuits and lifeboats and are simply the coolest. If Voltron had a love child with a puffy coat, this is what he would look like. Astonishing!
2. Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha’s way of mixing the romantic with the particular technical practicality of Moncler’s as an outerwear brand is certainly just brilliant. Rocha is one of the most convincing and promising young designers on the London Fashion Week calendar and her Moncler Genius collection is just another example of the amazing and unique vision that makes her such a talent without precedent in today’s fashion world.
1. Pierpaolo Piccioli
Oh. My. God. Before you read on, take a moment to look at these models and enjoy their sheer, dramatic beauty. Superb. Absolutely stunning.
Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli created his collection in collaboration with model and designer Liya Kebede. “I’m looking for a balance between daydreaming, extravagance and soul,” Piccioli said. “I involved Liya Kebede, who actively supports African artisans with her label lemlem, in the process, creating something true to her, Moncler and my own sensibility. Connecting diversity is my idea of inclusive creativity.
“There is no better way to show how age-old traditions, like the work of our lemlem artisans, have a place in modern fashion than this partnership, together with Pierpaolo and Moncler,” said Kebede. “I was honored to be a part of this creative process, bringing together legacies that at first glance seemed so different, but when combined in unexpected ways, create something so rich and new, redefining beauty and reminding us that there are no boundaries in life.
Genius. Absolutely awesome.